|In Praise of Anti-Sieze
||[Sep. 11th, 2009|09:49 pm]
The rotary platen arrived today! I've got it assembled and in place, and have confirmed it runs. However, the tension on the belt is too slack, and needs tightening, and I need to find my hex key set, I think metric, to turn the knob.|
I also wanted to change the drive from the 3" slow-speed wheel to the faster 6" wheel. These drive wheels are machined from aluminum, and mount directly on the motor shaft, interlinked with a standard key.
Now, the first few times I changed a wheel, it was fairly easy. Once, though, I left the 6" wheel on for a couple of years. The inevitable steel dust got into the gap, then some of that rusted. When iron rusts, it expands. When I wanted to change the wheel, I couldn't get it off until I resorted to a modified gear puller, and even then I was concerned about the pressures and stresses involved. After that, I just used the puller and cursed at the difficulty. In hindsight, this may have contributed to the untimely death of the first motor for the grinder.
Well, it's been about 2 years since I last changed the drive wheel on this grinder. With some trepidation I unmounted the contact wheel tooling arm, got a good grip on the drive wheel, and felt it slide smoothly off with just a little pressure.
You see, the last time I changed the drive wheel, I slathered the shaft, key, and hub with nickle based anti-seize before assembly. I had bought it after some folk speculated online that you could use the stuff as a source of nickle when pattern welding. My experiments showed it worked, but was hard to see and probably not worth the effort. On the other hand, at keeping metal components from sticking to each other, I have to give it two thumbs up.