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Doug Ayen

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forging s30v [Mar. 22nd, 2012|09:10 pm]
Doug Ayen
The problem with forging s30v isn't that it's red short, or tends to crumble if you get it too hot, crack if you forge it too cold, and really doesn't like moving under the hammer in the first place. No, the problem with forging s30v is that once you've forged it, and you only get the one chance, it'll be hard for all post-forging operations, unless you have a free 12 hours and a programmable heat treat oven so you can properly ramp the temperatures down slow enough to anneal it.

I need a real heat treat oven, and more time. But, if you're patient, you can grind it, using standard belts, but you're going to be at it a while. Too long, in this case, as my fingers are worn out and I'm starting to lose control on the grinder - a bad idea when dealing with 36-grit moving at 60mph.

In other words, no completed knife tonight, sorry. I did get it profiled, forged, removed most of the forging marks on one side and all of them on the other, and got one side's bevels ground in. Enough.

[User Picture]From: perspicuity
2012-03-23 04:18 am (UTC)
and peple wonder why i don't recommend s30v for knives that people expect to sharpen later ;) it's a pain.

but it's great for a salt water fish knife :D

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[User Picture]From: blackanvil
2012-03-23 02:44 pm (UTC)
It works great before you get it hot, but yeah, once it's hardened it's a bitch to work with. I don't have a problem sharpening it, but then I have the right equipment (power hone, diamond tooling, etc.) I like it because once you have a good edge on it, that edge will last a while, and resharpening is trivial when you have a dedicated sharpening setup. "free lifetime sharpening" of course applies to anyone who has one of my knives and needs a resharpening/polishing.
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