||[Oct. 27th, 2011|04:00 pm]
Just came across some notes left in my jacket pocket that I took down during the Ashokan seminar, and decided to make a somewhat more accessible and legible copy.|
add ore in a U shape around tuyre
A good blower is one of the bouncy castle blowers.
A water-cooled tuyre with a viewport is neat -- use a #5 shade from welding supply to protect your eyes.
Firemans' Gloves are good for hot work and working around a smelter.
Heat Treatment of Homemade Steel:
For the clay, try Ferguson Cement, about 1/16" thick.
Temperature 1450 - 1460 is good
Line an electric heat treating kiln with brick ,it protects the thermocouple and adds mass, which make the heating more even overall.
Use Park 50 for quench
Quench for 4-10 seconds, depending on thickness, while agitating.
Flash temper @350F
Temper after flashing at 400F
lN2 might be a good idea
A neat period decoration was to inlay a gold chain into the guard/handle of the rapier -- the "loose" links add a bit of kinetic sculpture, also decorative.
Check out the excavation at Helga (not sure what this is about, it's scribbled on the tameshigiri handout showing all the "strokes" used to test swords)
A better motor for the bader grinder: Leeson DC variable speed.
Traditionally European swords were countersunk into their guards to provide a strong mechanical connection between the handle and the blade.
Medieval Greek longswords, according to Peter Johnsson, have some interesting characteristics, possibly the closest to a light saber we've seen in steel???
Still can't comment on his speech on sword design. More on that after the Park Lane Arms Fair in March - anyone up for a trip to London in the spring?